Five Ten Anasazi Pinks Review

Five Ten Anasazi Lace The Pink Review

Review Overview

The new Five Ten Anasazi lace up "The Pink" is the latest version of one of the most successful shoes lines ever produced. This edging machine has been used over the past decade on notorious first ascents all over the world, so how does this latest model stand up to all the…
Comfort & Fit
Durability
Sensitivity
Edging
Smearing
Toe & Heel Hooking
Cracks
Value

Excellent

The edging machine lives up to it's reputation. A fantastic shoe with an amazing fit, perfect for technical projects.

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The new Five Ten Anasazi lace up “The Pink” is the latest version of one of the most successful shoes lines ever produced. This edging machine has been used over the past decade on notorious first ascents all over the world, so how does this latest model stand up to all the hype?

Comfort & Fit

Climbing shoe fit is a very personal thing, with all the different foot shapes out there it’s always best to try a pair on before buying to ensure the best fit for you. Disclaimer said, for me personally, this shoe has an unbelievably good fit – after some struggling to get it on (fairly standard), The Pinks pop on and hug my feet like nothing else I’ve tried.

The Pinks have snug contact all over the foot (in the arch and around the heel) ensuring a confidence inspiring, and surprisingly comfortable fit (foot crushing obviously size dependant). I wear UK 10.5 for pretty much everything (hiking boots to climbing shoes) for a fairly relaxed fit – they are tight at this size but not too painful, I could certainly size down if needed.

Durability

So after 2 months of use, The Pinks have stood up fairly well considering they are a performance shoe. The upper fabric, rand and heel cup are all in excellent condition. However, as carefully and as quietly as I try to climb, there is greater wear on the edges then some of the other shoes I have tested – the conclusion for me, is to use these as a project shoe, I only put them on when I actually need them (why ruin your best shoes when training on easier grades?).

Sensitivity

Considering the lace up Anasazi is a stiff shoe in the grand scheme of things, they are surprisingly sensitive. Five Ten seem to have got this bang on the money – for example when standing on tiny pebbles, you can feel your placement which gives confidence but the soles are stiff enough to prevent this from being painful.

Five Ten Anasazi Pinks Review

Technical cracks and edges are The Pinks bread and butter

Edging

It’s no surprise then that The Pinks are excellent at edging – our tests for this shoe have mainly taken place on Limestone which we found the C4 rubber sticks like glue to the smallest of edges. The balance of stiffness, sensitivity and grip make these an excellent choice for anyone looking to climb on the small stuff.

Smearing

Despite the stiffness, The Pinks handle smearing well – perhaps not quite like the sister velcro model (the VCS) but still enough to smear on technical grades and keep The Pinks out of the one-trick-pony box, after all, most of us don’t just climb one type of route.

Heel & Toe Hooking

I have to say, we haven’t been throwing down loads of heel and toe hooks during the testing, so it’s difficult to say how well they perform if this is your forte. Taking into considering the high rand (that runs all the way up the heel) and excellent fit, especially in the heel area – we think The Pinks will handle any heel and toe action you can throw at them.

Dean Potter

The Anasazi family (Blanco pictured) are notoriously good on the smallest of edges © Dean Potter

Cracks

If edging is this shoes headliner, then crack climbing is the main support act. The Pinks precise fit and extended toe rand (running right over the big toes) lend themselves to crack climbing (just ask Tom Randell). With minimal bulk and a streamlined finish, toes poke and cam into cracks with ease whilst the stiff sole supports the foot well making the whole experience as pain free as possible.

Summary

The Pinks are a classic and well developed shoe. The excellent fit, grippy C4 rubber and moderately stiff sole means they excel at edging and crack climbing but in no means is this their limitation. We think they are a perfect project shoe for when you need every bit of grip and confidence that you can muster, be warned (as with any performance shoe) if you wear these everyday you’ll wear them out fast – but when kept ready in your pack for those special routes, they are a great addition to anyones send arsenal.